John Paul: Why does this Wrangler often stall when put into reverse?

Jul 24, 2023

She has taken it back to the dealer, but they didn't fix the problem. She took it to our mechanic. We thought he'd fixed it, but he did not.

Could you please let us know what could be causing this problem?

A: I would start with evaluating the data from the computer when it stalls. One possible issue is a faulty crankshaft position sensor or wiring issue.

If all the electronics look good, then the issue is most likely internal to the transmission. When gear positions are selected, there are clutches that soften the engagement. It is possible the reverse clutch or lock-up torque converter are malfunctioning, causing the stalling.

At this point, I would return to the dealer or a transmission specialist for further evaluation.

Q: My elderly mother has a 2005 Honda Civic with 6,000 miles. Over the last year, she has been dealing with frequent dead battery issues.

In February 2021 we replaced the original battery and purchased a new battery at the dealer. She has continued to have issues and has required at least a dozen "boosts."

The dealer says she does not drive the car enough for the battery to charge fully. The dealer has completed several diagnostic checks of the charging system and can't find anything wrong with the car. I'm having a hard time with that answer, since she takes the car out for errands and doctor visits, and then the next day the battery is dead.

I've never had a car that couldn't sit for several days and not start. Her driving pattern now is no different than before she got the new battery. Any ideas?

A: I don't disagree with the dealer that the lack of driving is affecting the battery, but I also believe the battery needs replacement.

I would start with a complete evaluation of the battery as well as the charging system. As good as today's batteries are, they don't recover well after they are allowed to completely discharge.

The idea that the car has been boosted (jump-started) a dozen times tells me the battery is at the end of its useful life. I would return to the dealer and have them retest the battery. Once a good battery is in the car, it would be best to drive the car for 30 minutes each week.

Q: I need to put my car in storage for about six to eight months. From what I understand, I should disconnect the battery's negative terminal (or use a battery maintainer), change the oil, and add stabilizer to a full tank of gas.

I also heard it's a good idea to overinflate the tires or put the car up on jack stands to protect the tires from flat spotting. Are these actions accurate?

A: When putting a car away here is what I do:

Q: Should I purchase a cheap battery and replace it every two to three years or buy an expensive one and replace it every four to five years? Also, what would you consider a good battery brand? There are too many out there to choose.

A: Generally — with a battery — you get what you pay for. Cheaper batteries generally have less cranking power and lower reserve capacity than more expensive batteries.

Cheaper batteries also have much shorter warranties. As an example, AAA batteries have a three-year, 100% replacement warranty and are prorated for six years. AAA batteries are designed to meet or exceed the manufacturer's original specifications.

To me having a battery you can trust is important, and even with my Yankee frugalness (OK, I’m cheap) I would only buy a high-quality battery.

John Paul is the AAA Northeast Car Doctor. He has more than 40 years of experience in the automobile industry and is an ASE-Certified Master Technician. Write to John Paul, The Car Doctor, at 110 Royal Little Drive, Providence, RI 02904. Or email [email protected] and put "Car Doctor" in the subject field. Follow him on Twitter @johnfpaul or on Facebook.